2010 February 27
Elwha Campground > Elwha River Dam > Elwha Campground
Distance Biked: 7 miles


Three miles from Elwha campground, up a writhing road that follows the cusp of a deeply gouged canyon, wades a concrete titan whose shoulders pool the waters of Lake Mills. Several conversations with locals on the controversy of the dam had energized my interest in it. Apparently during the 1920's men were more interested in hydroelectricity than biodiversity and their monument to progress almost destroyed the endemic population of salmon. But in the end it is the dam, and not the fish, which will suffer extinction. Block by block the colossal structure is to be removed so that the river may return to its natural state. Or at least that is the goal, since no eco-restoration of this scale has ever been mounted before. As this year would be the last before its demolition, numerous people encouraged me to see the Elwha River dam, and thus it was my destination for the afternoon.


The curiously coralline waters of Elwha.

The route was steeply graded and glazed red in sopping leaves. At the top was a wealthy inheritance of panoramic views. Here the fair lake was wreathed in wisps of cloud, attended on all sides by her mountainous coterie of Olympic admirers. To my left was the dam itself, its iron shoots spilling torrential flows which boomed tremendously, filling the air with a steely blue mist. How far down it plunged I could not see, it was so large. I found myself awed motionless as I always am by such hulking structures, both for the scale and for their display of engineering prowess. I suppose if I ever visit Hoover or the Panama Canal I might pass out?

[ View this image larger]


While eating lunch I called a dear friend with whom I spoke for an hour. Having lately been so famished for social interaction, the conversation, though mostly regarding mundane details of our mutual lives, was to me more nourishing than my meal.


What are fried potatoes without hot sauce?

After cleaning my Trangia stove. Nice and brassy.
During the ride down my cell rang. My father had called to say our dog of thirteen years had been put down that morning. The old pup had begun to suffer from a sudden and intense pain, and euthanasia seemed the best option. Dad was understandably in a slump for it. "He was a good dog for us," his said, his voice wrought up with emotion, "but at least he's sleeping now, just as he did for most of his life." News was also relayed to me of a mighty earthquake in Chile, and the warning of tsunamis in Hawaii.

Owen scales the jagged peaks.


After dinner I did little besides notch off three more hours of Two Years, before going to sleep early for Church.



Elwha Campground > Elwha River Dam > Elwha Campground
Distance Biked: 7 miles


Three miles from Elwha campground, up a writhing road that follows the cusp of a deeply gouged canyon, wades a concrete titan whose shoulders pool the waters of Lake Mills. Several conversations with locals on the controversy of the dam had energized my interest in it. Apparently during the 1920's men were more interested in hydroelectricity than biodiversity and their monument to progress almost destroyed the endemic population of salmon. But in the end it is the dam, and not the fish, which will suffer extinction. Block by block the colossal structure is to be removed so that the river may return to its natural state. Or at least that is the goal, since no eco-restoration of this scale has ever been mounted before. As this year would be the last before its demolition, numerous people encouraged me to see the Elwha River dam, and thus it was my destination for the afternoon.


The curiously coralline waters of Elwha.

The route was steeply graded and glazed red in sopping leaves. At the top was a wealthy inheritance of panoramic views. Here the fair lake was wreathed in wisps of cloud, attended on all sides by her mountainous coterie of Olympic admirers. To my left was the dam itself, its iron shoots spilling torrential flows which boomed tremendously, filling the air with a steely blue mist. How far down it plunged I could not see, it was so large. I found myself awed motionless as I always am by such hulking structures, both for the scale and for their display of engineering prowess. I suppose if I ever visit Hoover or the Panama Canal I might pass out?

[ View this image larger]


While eating lunch I called a dear friend with whom I spoke for an hour. Having lately been so famished for social interaction, the conversation, though mostly regarding mundane details of our mutual lives, was to me more nourishing than my meal.


What are fried potatoes without hot sauce?

After cleaning my Trangia stove. Nice and brassy.
During the ride down my cell rang. My father had called to say our dog of thirteen years had been put down that morning. The old pup had begun to suffer from a sudden and intense pain, and euthanasia seemed the best option. Dad was understandably in a slump for it. "He was a good dog for us," his said, his voice wrought up with emotion, "but at least he's sleeping now, just as he did for most of his life." News was also relayed to me of a mighty earthquake in Chile, and the warning of tsunamis in Hawaii.

Owen scales the jagged peaks.


After dinner I did little besides notch off three more hours of Two Years, before going to sleep early for Church.



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